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what about the water pump will that be in the way and do I have to drain it ?
[/QUOTE] My recollection from gearbox removal on my TreK is that I removed the water pump to get it out the way of the gearbox cover. I did not drain the coolant as I recall. Just undid the fasteners and pulled the pump out of the way. It was a bit of a mongrel to realign the drive on reassembly, as I recall, but I eventually succeeded with care, patience and the full range of my vocabulary.
 

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what about the water pump will that be in the way and do I have to drain it ?
My recollection from gearbox removal on my TreK is that I removed the water pump to get it out the way of the gearbox cover. I did not drain the coolant as I recall. Just undid the fasteners and pulled the pump out of the way. It was a bit of a mongrel to realign the drive on reassembly, as I recall, but I eventually succeeded with care, patience and the full range of my vocabulary.
[/QUOTE]
Do I need any special tools for the clutch ? In the manual they are talking about a magnet tool... Also in the manual it is a normal clutch where as I have a dry clutch ! Cheers
 

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Do I need any special tools for the clutch ? In the manual they are talking about a magnet tool... Also in the manual it is a normal clutch where as I have a dry clutch ! Cheers
[/QUOTE]
The wet clutch on my bike has a normal hex nut but the dry clutch is different. It looks like that needs a special socket or something to unscrew the nut (Item 15). A 2013 post from Kicka666 in this forum states a 19mm hex socket and impact wrench will do it. Someone with dry clutch experience might advise you more about that. I bought a clutch hub holding tool on eBay to enable me to undo the hub nut. This is a dry clutch tool Benelli clutch Holding Tool- fits modern Dry clutch models | eBay Other forum members have written that they managed to undo the nut by engaging top gear and holding the back brake. I think the magnet is just to get the steel ball (item 26) out of the hollow shaft. I guess that stops it falling out and disappearing somewhere when you are not watching. I have a small diameter magnet on a metal wand that would fit inside the shaft but I imagine other ways might be to press the pushrod through from the other side while the actuator is off or lean the bike over so it rolls out.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I will start dissasembling the bike in 1-2 weeks max... will update this thread will all the findigns, but thank you all with the already shared hints.
 

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Yes me too, I bought a pair circular pliers, borrowed the clutch hob tool and the clutch holding tool from a friend other than that I didnt need any special tools.
I mainly followed the instructions given on the forum somewhere.
Here is what I did.
Disconnect battery / disconnect solenoid and remove, drain fluids oil and coolant !
1. disassemble clutch / pull off basket
2. remove alternator
3. remove starter motor
4. remove water pump
5. remove oil pump
6. undo front sprocket which turns out could have stayed
7. remove gears ( tapping from the other side onto the gear shaft helped a lot in my case)
..... Work in progress....
Tomorrow I am going to try and put in the new parts wish me luck !
 

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I am not sure what you mean. However I have a special tool to undo the Z25 bolt and the alternator nut. It is about 300mm of 40mm square tube with slots cut with an angle grinder to hold the coupling. A socket on an extension goes down the middle. The tube is held with a shifting spanner.
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I never use any locking looks (like for the clutch or flywheels) nor heating, I use a impact wrench (a Bosh 18v 600 Nm) and you can unscrew practically everything without even touching the counter-parts... the mass of the other piece, even if its very low, and the vibration and impact of 600Nm of the wrench ends in a clear win :)
 

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I have to try it with heat and hope I didn't round then heads too much

ok i will try that maybe with some heat too. busy now working over bank holiday so i wont get time for a few days - patience...
Better idea would be to get a brand new hex set bit, the correct size, tap it fully home into the recess.
use a small impact driver to the head of the screw. Would be careful using the punch idea to butcher the head.
When you get them out , get new replacements.
 

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Better idea would be to get a brand new hex set bit, the correct size, tap it fully home into the recess.
use a small impact driver to the head of the screw. Would be careful using the punch idea to butcher the head.
When you get them out , get new replacements.
This is true but it looks like he is past that point already. On other occasions I have used slightly larger maybe imperial Allen keys or even torx bits and hammered them in anything to get a grip but there is a risk,
 

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I assume its the two socket head countersunk screws that are causing you trouble?
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They don't look that flash any more!
A few things you could try:-
  1. with a small ball pein hammer, peen the edges back to close up the hex, then hammer a square allen key (not a ball) into the screw socket. The hammering on the head of the screw will help to shock the screw loose. Then carefully apply a torque to the allen key in an attempt to unscrew it.
  2. failing that, try using the next imperial size up allen key. The slight increase will allow you to put more pressure on the screw.
  3. failing that, and this is nearly your last resort, use an arc welder to build up the screw head so that you can grip it with a quality set of multigrips. This will take some skill, but it will work. I've done it many times. Most recently: before
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    after
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    The heat will travel down the screw and expand it. Any thread locker will be weakened and on cooling, the screw will contract, leaving the screw almost finger tight.
  4. absolute last resort. Grind the head off. You'll destroy the plate though. TBH, #3 will solve the problem
 

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