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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
my bike is 6000 km :) i just upgraded both battery and starter motor... but that should not be a reason for this... this gear should support 10 times the load a starter motor could generate...
 

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Let me know how things go with the oil pan because I was thinking about it but its a rather big job with the exhaust is kind of in the way too or not ?
You have got a magnetic sump pump, that usually picks up ant floating bits of steel, but yes it is worth taking the sump off and the filter pick up cover, you can find bits in there. All sorts of things ! bits of silicone gasket and bits you have no idea where they have come from. If you slacken the header nuts to give a bit of slack , you can wiggle off the exhaust in the underslung position. Font Jewellery Circle Fashion accessory Metal


see what I mean !
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Let me know how things go with the oil pan because I was thinking about it but its a rather big job with the exhaust is kind of in the way too or not ?
i dont think the exhaust must be removed... but I just ordered the 67/17, it will take up to two weeks to reach home, so I have A LOT of time to take things out.... I'm not in a hurry while waiting parts.

If its not this week, next week I will remove oil pan, alternator and water pump, but will keep this thread updated on all the findings for sure... up to the end, when all, the entire starting system, is finally replaced with newer parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
good, no need to remove from the bike the exhaust, just lose the headers (6 nuts) and the two bolts in the middle pipe and the silencer, and it falls enough to remove the oil pan.. as @freeatlast posted, was full of silicone

the missing teeth where there :)
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... the oil pan.. as @freeatlast posted, was full of silicone
That job should have been done at the 1000 km service, or earlier.
Take the cam cover off and have a look there. Gideon's engine had it all over the place. It took me an hour to clean it up. It won't come off in a solvent. You have to mechanically remove it.

RTV Silicone should be used sparingly, but it's not. If "dags" that come adrift find their way into an oil gallery, they can cause serious problems. I wonder if this is the cause of big end issues in a number of engines reported here.
A non-hardening resin is much better in that respect. Its messier, but easy to clean up with alcohol. Oil doesn't trouble it.
 

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I am doing oil and filter change I think while i am at it. Any recommendations on a inexpensive oil filter not one from maniac. I already spent around 600 Eur on different parts the last few weeks. Also how much oil and which one. Thanks. Here is my oil pan-ing out picture.
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Question ? Do I need to bleed the coolant system after I put everything back together or will topping it up be enough ?
there are multiple technics, like leaning the bike from one side to the another...

I have my own (that I do in cars, trucks etc), just fill up, do two-three blocks of normal riding, let it rest for a night and top the other day
 

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Do I need to bleed the coolant system after I put everything back together or will topping it up be enough ?
If you've drained the coolant you'll need to fill it and bleed it. There is an airlock in the return hose which makes bleeding necessary. Benelli added a "bleed hose" from the top of he thermostat housing to the base of the filler cap. It also has an airlock, but with use, as Aleib states, the air in those airlocks will be drawn to the top of the radiator with use. If you re-route that hose so that there is a continual rise to the radiator cap, it will work as intended without the need for running the engine. I describe the change HERE.

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On Nell, the hose fitted neatly between the radiator air intake and the tail & panel mounting bracket. On Gideon's Tre I had to carefully bend the bottom of that bracket to make room for the hose. It helps if the bike is on the track stand.
 
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