Benelli Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. New to the Benelli scene, so I’m hoping someone can guide me to a solution for my misfiring issues.

I bought a 2009 with a mere 3000 miles on the clock a couple of weeks ago. On the test ride it seemed perfectly fine but when I actually rode it home I noticed it was spluttering a bit and put it down to the ideology of it being sat for so long and presumed it was a bit of fuel gone bad in the lines etc.

Took the bike out for a spin and started out fine, seemed to splutter a bit but took off higher in the Rev range. A few more miles and it felt as if it was down to 2 cylinders. Then one. Eventually had to pull over and then it seemed to run better after restarting but not operating to full potential.

so, did a fuel flush and a plug change and whilst I was there tested the coil sticks but my meter doesn’t read such low resistance. But all seemed consistent and no obvious high or low readings at any of the sticks.

took the bike out for a ride today and again after a couple of miles back to running like a bag of spanner’s. Barry going past 5k and misfiring like crazy.

Any other brand and it’d be sussed by now but I’m hesitant to start tearing it down with the knowledge there aren’t many around.

I have been advised to have it remapped but this must be more than a bad map. It’s practically unrideable :(

any help would be massively appreciated!!

tom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
853 Posts
It does sound like a coil stick breaking down when warm. Can you tell if the header pipes are the same temp? Other possibilities are injector ,bad connection somewhere or fuel supply issue maybe. Is it heat or time related?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It does sound like a coil stick breaking down when warm. Can you tell if the header pipes are the same temp? Other possibilities are injector ,bad connection somewhere or fuel supply issue maybe. Is it heat or time related?
thanks for the reply! is that common? for it only to develop a fault under heat conditions? You’d think if it was faulty it’d Be like that from a cold start too?

I haven’t been able to tell unfortunately but it’s running very rich, and the plugs werefouled when I removed them if that helps? On all three cylinders that is.

I’d assume temperature related. I’ve read a fair bit about the stepper causing problems rather similar too, would that cause such severe issues?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,238 Posts
Does the 899 have the cable operated flap in the exhaust like the 1130 tnt/cafe racer? (also flaps in the airbox)
To run at their best the flaps are wired open, (or removed) .0n my 1130 the lockwire broke allowing the flap to move causing a missfire above 5.5k. To be honest it does not sound like your symptoms but quick and easy to check (my "temporary" paper clip fix lasted two years!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does the 899 have the cable operated flap in the exhaust like the 1130 tnt/cafe racer? (also flaps in the airbox)
To run at their best the flaps are wired open, (or removed) .0n my 1130 the lockwire broke allowing the flap to move causing a missfire above 5.5k. To be honest it does not sound like your symptoms but quick and easy to check (my "temporary" paper clip fix lasted two years!)
Hi Ian,

yes it has the exhaust valve and the butler fly valves in the air box, to my knowledge both are functioning at they should. The pinion on the valve is turning then the cable pulls are (4500?) rpm. The flaps in the air box were up/open when I had the bike in bits last week so I’m not entirely sure if that has already been done by a previous owner maybe? Would you recommend doing away with these altogether then?

bennetts in Barnsley are insistent that it’ll be the coils and a remap but I don’t see how the coils could function fine from a cold start and then become faulty with a bit of heat but I could well be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,238 Posts
certainly on the 1130 the airbox flaps are best removed and the exhaust flap wired upon. Presume mapped accordingly.
If Bennetts are saying coils i would certainly take their advise (what matt and russ dont know about benellis not worth knowing) .
Unless a warranty issue i would suggest getting them to go through the bike and set it up for you (coils can break down when hot - my old cb900 did anyway!) Hope you get sorted soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@ianh really appreciate the advise, I’ll get on it straight away. I think I’ll order the tech-autos replacements to save modifying the Peugeot/Citroen ones.
Does the exhaust valve have to be mapped to the open position? Or is it a mechanical alteration?
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,987 Posts
Best bit of test gear you can invest in is an IR thermometer. Each header should be within 5C of each other. The odd one out will be the one with the dud coil stick. That'e the only way to test them.
Mind you, it could be a crook plug or a broken wire in a connector, but that is long odds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Best bit of test gear you can invest in is an IR thermometer. Each header should be within 5C of each other. The odd one out will be the one with the dud coil stick. That'e the only way to test them.
Mind you, it could be a crook plug or a broken wire in a connector, but that is long odds.
Thanks for the heads up mate.

any ideas what range I should be looking for? The IR Ones I’ve seen so far go up to circa 600 degrees Celsius, would that suffice?
The plugs have been swapped out fir new ones and the leads looked like new so I’m guessing and hoping there’s no issues there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,238 Posts
@ianh really appreciate the advise, I’ll get on it straight away. I think I’ll order the tech-autos replacements to save modifying the Peugeot/Citroen ones.
Does the exhaust valve have to be mapped to the open position? Or is it a mechanical alteration?
cable can be disconnected at the exhaust end, then wire the flap open. Think it would probably benefit from being mapped anyway, which bennetts would help with. Matt is sometimes on the benelli forum facebook page so worth taking a look there too
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,987 Posts
what range I should be looking for? The IR Ones I’ve seen so far go up to circa 600 degrees Celsius, would that suffice?
The headers will read around 200C. Hot enough to burn your skin and you won't know it except for the barbecue smell, so if you want to test it by feel, do it in the first few seconds from startup!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thankyou all for the great input gents! New coils ordered, new stepper ordered (as after investigation I wasn’t convinced the travel was sufficient on the return) and air box mod completed. When it’s all back together, providing it runs okay, I’ll be taking it over to Bennett’s for a map and a once over - it’s only 40 minutes or so from me so it makes sense.
You’ve all been great 👍🏼
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
I'd check the TPS with TuneECU. Should not be a problem with such low miles but it sounds a bit like the bad behaviour my TreK exhibited each time the TPS failed. Very cranky down low but ran fine with a fist full of throttle.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top