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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my parts today from Benelli - only 1 1/2 months from when I ordered them!

Anyhow, started the re-assembly by putting on the cylinder block - what a pain in the a$$!! Getting the ring compressor in the space between the cylinder and the block on the last piston took six or seven tries before I got the piston to go into the bore. The plastic (PEEK perhaps?) blocks referenced in the workshop manual seem like they would be a help at the beginning and soon are exactly the opposite as you progress along. I borrowed these from my dealer (thanks Benelli of Connecticut) - glad I didn't buy them.

Now I have to wait for the new guides to be installed in the head; probably still a month away from riding it...

http://www.benelliforum.com/gallery/deanhalter_reassembly
 

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Finally got my parts today from Benelli - only 1 1/2 months from when I ordered them!
Half the time it used to take for Stoney Creek to get them to me. Stop complaining ...:ele: When I ordered a new swing arm, it took a year to NOT get here at all!
Anyhow, started the re-assembly by putting on the cylinder block - what a pain in the a$$!! Getting the ring compressor in the space between the cylinder and the block on the last piston took six or seven tries before I got the piston to go into the bore.
Not the easiest job, but I didn't need a ring compressor. The bottom of the bore has a taper on it, which compresses the ring for you. Once lined up, it went well.
The plastic (PEEK perhaps?) blocks referenced in the workshop manual seem like they would be a help at the beginning and soon are exactly the opposite as you progress along. I borrowed these from my dealer (thanks Benelli of Connecticut) - glad I didn't buy them.
Made my own, out of a discarded plastic kitchen cutting board. Worked a treat. Better than your borrowed ones, it seems. :D
Now I have to wait for the new guides to be installed in the head; probably still a month away from riding it...
http://www.benelliforum.com/gallery/deanhalter_reassembly
Ahh, but then you'll get the chance to bed in those rings properly. You'll be amazed how much more power you'll have on tap. I certainly did.:excited:
 

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Good effort Dean,
nice to see the home mechanic is still alive and working hard, good luck with the rebuild,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am in West Hartford, about an hour and a half northeast of NYC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I saw the taper in the bore and thought the same, but I could not get the top ring to cooperate. Come to think of it, I don't think I have come across a ring with as much compression as the top ring on the Benelli, it barely stays in the groove until ready for the bore.
 

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I saw the taper in the bore and thought the same, but I could not get the top ring to cooperate. Come to think of it, I don't think I have come across a ring with as much compression as the top ring on the Benelli, it barely stays in the groove until ready for the bore.
Yeah, it's difficult to get it started because of this.
I needed a 3rd hand. 1 to keep a little pressure on the bore, and 2, with plastic pokers to compress the ring enough to get it into the taper. Once in, it went surprisingly easily.

1.5 hrs is probably too far to meet up - we won't have any transport. We're getting there from DC by train, then bussing it to JFK on the way out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wasn't that bad to do on the bike. I decided to go this route as I didn't have the time to rough out a stand or an available helper to aid in getting the engine out.

The only hiccup was re-installing the upper engine mounts at the back of the cylinder head - I had to use a ratchet strap connected underneath the engine and the headstock to pull the engine and frame into alignment. In the future, I would get the head in position, install the frame mounts, the torque everything up together...

I also think I am headed for heli-coil inserts next time I have to do a valve adjustment - one of the cam caps seemed to get a little weird as I torqued them up. I went for a lower value - 11N-m instead to the 13 to ensure I didn't fully strip any of them. One would wonder why these are not studs.
 

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I also think I am headed for heli-coil inserts next time I have to do a valve adjustment - one of the cam caps seemed to get a little weird as I torqued them up. I went for a lower value - 11N-m instead to the 13 to ensure I didn't fully strip any of them. One would wonder why these are not studs.
I was using 10Nm, before I put helicoils (M6x1 x1.5D) in @ 57,000 km. I tried studs, but the threads were already too far gone, and pulled out.
You'll need space above the head to install helicoils. I'm thinking that the frame will get in the way if you try it with the engine in.
Even the helicoils don't feel solid. Not sure what to do if they fail ......
 
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