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LOL - centre stand is next on the agenda, based on Cam's prototype. I already bought material and produced scale sketches to determine pivot position and spring angles. I hope to ensure it holds up properly and locks over centre when deployed. I bought a new welding shield a couple days ago, after I realised I was blinded for the first few seconds of every arc. That might improve my welding. However I must now commit time to garden irrigation, to avoid extreme noise or icy conditions on the home front.
 

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The tube is only 1.2mm wall thickness and I am using flux cored wire, welding intermittently to avoid holes, then grinding-off the rough finish. .... I have a TIG welder in the shed that could potentially do a better job but I have not used that method for 40-odd years and forgot what little I knew. Cheers.
Drag that TIG out of storage, and hook up a foot control.
If the machine is half decent you'll be able to use 1 mm stainless steel tube (even thinner) and find it far easier to weld than mild steel. It runs like solder!
If it is an AC machine you can use 1.2 mm aluminium tube, with a bit of practice. Way way way easier than with oxy-acetylene though. That is a challenge!
 

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LOL - centre stand is next on the agenda, based on Cam's prototype... I hope to ensure it holds up properly and locks over centre when deployed.
My 'prototype' doesn't lock over-centre. Not that it matters with a centre stand. The puny springs can't lift the weight of the bike and roll it forward. You can only tell it doesn't lock forward if you swing it down while the bike is chocked up in the air and the stand is clear of the ground.

Side stands are a different matter. I hate side stands that spring back up as soon as you take the weight off them. I had one like that on a Laverda RGS. Ended up modifying it so it would stay put when deployed.

Nice job on the pannier frames. An angle grinder is an essential tool for us folks who are crap at welding.

BTW, I have a set of Givi pannier frames on my Tre-K. Happy to send photos if you need any inspiration re the bracing.
 

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Design

Sorry Cam I wasn't critical of your stand arrangement. I found a likely looking spring my scrap. Contemplating your note on spring duplication I sketched a hinge proposal to consider dimensions, angles and forces. It's my habit since design office days, except I do it at night over a single malt now. Thanks for the picture offer. I've seen the pannier frame arrangements from the various manufacturers. Conscious of a stock frame failure in the bush I am hoping to avoid it with diagonal bracing but prefer it looked less grotesque than my Mk1 version.
 

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Sorry Cam I wasn't critical of your stand arrangement ...
Blimey, I'm not so sensitive that I consider your comment as criticism.


I would have preferred to make the spring an over-centre arrangement, but room to do it was a bit too tight. I suppose could have done it with a bit more work, but figured I could live with it as it was.

Another potential centre stand builder from Germany told me via email that two springs were required by TUV compliance regulations to prevent the stand from falling down if one spring breaks. I'd never considered that possibility because it's no big deal if the stand falls down. It's not going to cause a crash, just a bit of noise and a few sparks as it drags along the road. Tie it up with a bit of string until you can replace the spring.
 

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Budget Panniers & frames

Eventually fitted panniers to the TreK. The boxes and 16mm tube came from the hardware shop. Next step is endurance testing. Must pack them with stuff and go riding on our rough, unsealed rural roads to see if they survive.
0.jpg 1.jpg 5.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 

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I've had some issues with the charging system on my Tre-K not doing its job. I'd be on a ride, everything seemingly OK, arrive at my destination without any clue that anything is wrong. No "BATT" warning on the display. But when I go to re-start the bike there's no juice in the battery.

Last time it happened I was at a mate's place. When I went to leave, there was not even enough power to actuate the starter relay. We put a voltmeter on the battery and it read 8V. Checked all the fuses - all good. Put it on the charger for a few hours and the voltage came up to over 12V, the bike started normally and was making about 14V when I revved the engine, so I rode it home. Checked it when I got home and it was still behaving normally. Starting and charging OK.

Anyway, that's the second time it's done that to me, so my confidence in the charging system is somewhat diminished. I need to be able to monitor it when riding and do something about it if it goes belly-up. To that end, I bought a cheap little waterproof voltmeter on eBay and stuck it to the dash mounting bracket with double-sided tape. It's wired so it powers up when I switch on the ignition. The display is bright enough to read in direct sunlight. So far The charging system has been behaving itself, so still no clue as to what the original problem was.
 

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Loss of power

I've had some issues with the charging system on my Tre-K not doing its job. I'd be on a ride, everything seemingly OK, arrive at my destination without any clue that anything is wrong. No "BATT" warning on the display. But when I go to re-start the bike there's no juice in the battery.
Hi Cam, an interesting new phenomenon! Nice display! In the Aussie FB group there have been two causes for loss of power. They were 1/. Alternator drive coupling coming undone and 2/. Start solenoid terminals not contacting properly due to bolts bottomed in the terminals instead of tightened against the cable lugs. Neither of these sound like your issue. Could something have sucked power out of the battery while the bike was off? I've had something similar when a battery failed in my car. Recharged once or twice but soon died properly. I also had something a bit similar on the TreK, after I neglected to tighten both earth terminal bolts in the early hours while reassembling for the next days ride. In that case the battery still had power but intermittently it didn't get where it was needed, until I discovered my mistake. It was costly, because the ECU was the only earth path and was damaged by the current. Until I found a used ECU I had to disconnect the battery to turn-off the ignition. Hope you get to the bottom of it without being stranded! If you find it is the battery I can recommend the SSB Lithium battery. I am using a LFP14H-BS which is incredibly light, tiny and only $165 delivered via eBay.
 

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My money's on your battery Cam, or the terminals. Your alternator was holding up the voltage while the engine was running.
If that is the case, your voltmeter might show a slight increase in voltage when it happens while the engine is running. That's exactly what happened when the battery failed internally on a Fairlane I had many years ago, while driving on a corrugated gravel road for a few hours. I immediately knew that when I turned the engine off it wasn't going to start again, and it didn't.
 

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I doubt it would show over 12V with a buggered cell. It's a new battery anyway. I suspect a poor connection somewhere in the charging circuit.
 

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I doubt it would show over 12V with a buggered cell. It's a new battery anyway. I suspect a poor connection somewhere in the charging circuit.
Still think as do others, its the battery. Had a new one in June this year, went flat in September. charged it back up , fine for two rides, then , zilch 3,8 v .
Dead as a nit. Got a spare , as you do, no probs since .
Just get a cheap spare, and try it . At least you can ride out . Over here the weather is shit and we are in lockdown .

Oh And in the shit , its a race against the vaccine and the numbers infected/ did not make it .
 

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I sympathise with your problems in UK. Tasmania has been Covid free since about May last year, but it's not all perfect here. It was 37 Celsius here yesterday - a bit too warm for motorcycling.


As for the bike's charging issues, I remain unconvinced it's a battery issue. I'll monitor it (now that I can check voltage at a glance) and let you know if you're right. In the meantime I carry a little jump-start lithium battery pack in my pocket in case it misbehaves again.
 

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I doubt it would show over 12V with a buggered cell. It's a new battery anyway. I suspect a poor connection somewhere in the charging circuit.
Almost new is no guarantee?

A very hot or freshly-charged battery should start a lump despite a dodgy cell or even two. It's 'cold' that's the killer and the real pointer (your 8vDC reading). Post-charging, 12.4 vDC is barely good (12.6 is accepted as good enough with approaching 13 ideal). A rested battery (many hours after use or charging) is the true health indicator.14vDC at the terminals with a multimeter just signifies that the charging circuit is working and good-ish (tbh, I'd have expected better with a handful of revs). The lesser than expected charging voltage could be a sign of dicky charging or more likely dodgy battery.

As per normal, the lowest cost 'over-hanging fruit' option is the prudent one.
 

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Today I've mostly been looking around the garage checking tyre pressures on the bikes and cursing at the fact were on an open ended lockdown ... Again ! ..
I'd rather die riding a bike than of boredom !!
 
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