Benelli Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

already mentioned that i got my nelli yesterday. On the ferry, and then also at home, I experienced some problem:

Engine is cold, temperature outside around 5°C. Turning on ignition. Waiting for the self-test to be finished. When done, pulling the clutch lever and push the starter-button. Starter revs well. Engine is giving me one or 2 ignitions, then nothing. Starting continues to rev while i keep on pushing the button. Then turning off ignition, waiting one minute, same again. If I push the starter button and open throttle at the same time, it will start. But I have to keep it alive (if you ever heard, how they warm up the race engines, you know what i mean. Sorry for my poor english). After 20 seconds, everything is fine.

Please don´t ask me, if the yellow light on top of the dash was on yesterday. But when I turned on the ignition today, after self-test it was still on.

As I read here that the yellow light means all and nothing.... is the starting problem a hint for something that I should check? I think I have garantee on the bike, as it is only 1 year old and from UK. But if it is just a small thing, I want to solve it by myself.

I am right that the yellow light should be off after the self-test, right?

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Dirk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
The Yellow (injector) light stays on after self-test on my LE.

I find the bike does take a long time to start. I have also learned that with fuel-injected bikes to NOT TOUCH the throttle during starting - the computer should figure out the settings for mixture/choke and opening the throttle changes the amount of air coming in and the computer has to try and compensate.

That being said my LE takes several tries to start when cold. It will crank, fire, and then die. I have to do this a few times to get it to finally stay running. Each time it fires it runs for a few seconds longer than the last time. Usually it takes 3 or 4 of these to get it to run. It's sometimes embarrassing in a group but I just shrug and say, "It's Italian". :p

Also, once it's warm my bike doesn't like to idle (will occasionally die at a stoplight) so I'll have to rev it a bit to keep it running. But I figure this has to do with the race map being loaded (race bikes don't need to idle). The map is perfect above 3,000 rpm and all is forgotten once I'm on a racetrack or curvy road :clap:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for your reply. Yellow light stays on after self-test with your bike, too? So, it seems to be normal.

3 or 4 times until it runs. I also did, but that lead to nothing.

I don´t have those problems with engine dying at idle. Idle is normal at 1300RPM.

I will charge the battery (which don´t need to be charged, but just to make sure). Then see tomorrow again. But I am sure that is another prob. Isn´t there a possibility to read an error code from the display? Or do I have to turn on the heater? :rolling:

If one of you have a suggestion, please let me know.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,774 Posts
Hi Dirk, that yellow light should stay on until after the engine has fired then go out after that.

I used to turn my dipped beam light off when starting the bike to allow all the power from the battery to turn the starter but I found that it actually seamed better to leave the light on when turning the engine over.

Go figure :confused:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,429 Posts
I'm sure that others will follow on this but the yellow injection light will stay on if triggered by a fault for a period even if no fault is now current . Just wondered if bikes been stood long in dealers showroom and fuel has become unstable and has blocked injectors hence poor running/start up. Did you ride it from the dealers to the ferry and then loaded into the trailer at Amsterdam as i wondered if rode away how it was at dealer point. sure others will come up with solutions / fault reasoning . good luck .
 

·
ENGLAND FOREVER
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
I am the person with the smallest amount of knowledge about Benelli`s on the forum:) :)
my RS is difficult to start some times, it will turnover once or twice & stick as if it hit the compression, then it will normally start, this makes everyone stare with that "Italian Crap" look on their faces, then it fires up & its my turn to smile. Hope all works out for you freind :ele: :ele:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm sure that others will follow on this but the yellow injection light will stay on if triggered by a fault for a period even if no fault is now current . Just wondered if bikes been stood long in dealers showroom and fuel has become unstable and has blocked injectors hence poor running/start up. Did you ride it from the dealers to the ferry and then loaded into the trailer at Amsterdam as i wondered if rode away how it was at dealer point. sure others will come up with solutions / fault reasoning . good luck .
Yes, I rode it from the dealer to the ferry and it worked very fine. Then waiting at the ferry, waiting to roll on. When tried t start it happened the first time. Then on the ferry the next morning. And in he afternoon after unloading again. Battery is charging now. Again, I am certain that it is not the battery. The error started suddenly with no reason at all. (Maybe she got mad by leaving UK ;) )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yo guys....

how can i say? I am wearing sackcloth and ashes now....

After I charged the battery over night, I gave it a try this afternoon. Nelli started fine. Obviously, I took too much power from the battery as I had to ask for the way from the shop to the ferry. And so, on my 15 miles way, I started the bike a few times within a short period of time. I guess that was too much for the battery. Maybe I should change it to a hawker sbs8, if it fits.

Thanks for your help. I am happy now that she is running fine :ele:

Unfortunately, we don´t have a huge crowd of Tornado-riders here in germany. Maybe i have to come over for a ride with you guys. Make sure, you turn on the sunshine ;)
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,841 Posts
Hi Dirk, good news all is ok now. The RS looks immaculate in the pics, has it done very low miles? :ele:
hope you have some nice weather to get out and enjoy your nelli.
Colin...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,774 Posts
Nice one Dirk. Glad you got to the bottom of it and it was nothing serious. Result!!!!:clap:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Colin, thanks for your wishes to have nice weather here. Unfortunately, we only have around 4°C here with rain. Anyway, I am removing the headlight now to change it to a "mainland one". Otherwise, I will have difficulties with our MOT, which is called TUV in germany. Without TUV-certificate, i will not be able to register my beauty.

Warm weather will come its way. Just a matter of time
 

·
Benelli Wannabe !
Joined
·
6,865 Posts
Its a balmy 70 F today here in Florida!!!
JR:bow: That is Simply a Cruel quote ! It's 70 deg in my living room with the Central Heating on full pelt :bawl:

Lee, you ain't the least knowledgable about Benelli's, I probably am, but on the other hand who needs to be knowledgable when you have all the geezers on this forum, Errol, Laurence and everyone else who contributes, and of course Rusty Russ :bow:

:clap:



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,841 Posts
Dirk, i`m not sure if you need to remove the fairings to change the light, but if you do, or if you want something to do whilst waiting for the weather, I would recommend checking all engine bolts are tight . In particular the ones to the side of the cylinder head and the front middle top. My RS from new had a little knock and eventually while I was in Germany the front brakes started to judder and got worse. When i got home I found the loose bolts were the cause (the engine is a stressed member). I got replacement discs under warranty,as the judder damaged them !
I have since seen several others including tnts with loose bolts usually the left one, so it is quite a common problem. The bolts do have a paint line indicating they have been tightened, but i believe they come loose due to heat/vibration etc.
Worth a check as I was lucky Benelli agreed to the disc replacement.:)
Colin..
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,934 Posts
..I would recommend checking all engine bolts are tight . In particular the ones to the side of the cylinder head and the front middle top. My RS from new had a little knock and eventually while I was in Germany the front brakes started to judder and got worse. When i got home I found the loose bolts were the cause (the engine is a stressed member)....
To stop the top one from loosening, brace it with THIS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Colin, thanks Errol,

I will go to my garage now and turn on the heater. After 30 minutes, I will start to remove the fairings and the headlight. After I removed all the stuff, I will have a look at the bolts.

Thanks for the advice.

Errol, thanks for the link to your site. I will ask somebody to produce this brace for me. Maybe I can mount it before i get back the mainland headlight.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,841 Posts
That is no trouble Dirk, that is the great thing with this forum, all the little things found out can be told to other owners and this makes it much better for all of us. Errol has done a brilliant job by putting lots of usefull info on his site. By the way if you dont have a workshop manual you can download one from here.....http://www.benelli.co.uk/_bikes/Documents/Tornado%20RS900%20Workshop.pdf.zip
colin..
P.S. I had one more potentially dangerous fault on my RS(but have not heard of the same fault on any others) The fault was the rear damper seal securing nut had come undone and dropped down the shaft. It is worth a visual check. Obviously I discovered it before the seal popped out and Benelli replaced the unit. The fault was not Benellis it was Extremtech the producer of the dampers.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top