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I expect you'll find that, like my Tornado, it runs rich below 6000 rpm, but spot-on above. A legacy of its racing heritage. The upside of running rich at low revs is that it keeps the engine a little cooler. The downside, on the road, is that a lot of time is spent at low revs, when you expect to get better mileage, and don't.
It can be fixed. I did it by installing a Motty AFR Tuner, sadly no longer available. If I was to do it again, now, I would be logging AFR/throttle position/ gear and speed, and carefully modifying the map until it was much closer to 13:1 throughout the used range.
Maybe worth to update the text in Fitting a Motty AFR Tuner with this info and new solution idea?
 
What would you like me to add?
Actually I'd suggest to:
1) change the current page title and menu from "Why Install an AFR Tuner?" & "How to fit an AFR Tuner" to "How to improve fuel consumption"
2) move point 2 up to top of page
3) create a new "Historic Archive" top level menu item
3) move all references to AFR Tuner under this new section because its no longer applicable

Does that make sense?
I could send you a revised html file with above changes
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
New issue today
Clocks light up. Warning lights work.
Temp and tach do not go through the typical range of motion with key on. No display of fuel/temp/speed
Bike fires up normally.

looks like it is time to get the dielectric grease and emory paper, maybe the soldering gun, out for some good old fashioned fiddling.

Every day is an adventure

edit. Removed the purple lock from the connector, reattached and relocked
Problem solved
 
Actually I'd suggest to:
1) change the current page title and menu from "Why Install an AFR Tuner?" & "How to fit an AFR Tuner" to "How to improve fuel consumption"
2) move point 2 up to top of page
3) create a new "Historic Archive" top level menu item
3) move all references to AFR Tuner under this new section because its no longer applicable

Does that make sense?
I could send you a revised html file with above changes
Email it to me mate. Saves me the effort if you have already done it. Just keep it really simple. No smarty pants html editors that place unnecessary rubbish. gedit is smart enough.
The only issue I've got with documenting the "long winded" solution to improving economy, is that I haven't done it, so I can't talk from experience. I don't know who has either.

The Menu is a tad more complicated, as you will see if you look at the top level html.

There's a section on a head up display that is also obsolete. It could find a place next to the AFR Tuner install.
Mind you, there are a couple of Tornados with AFR Tuners installed, so the information isn't completely obsolete.
 
Dry connection on some of the pins?
To be expected on a vehicle that hasn't moved in a while. Contacts continually oxidize, but because they generally move through vibration, the oxide is constantly worn away. When they don't move, the oxide builds up and forms a higher resistance joint. When they are eventually called on to do their job, the current flow exacerbates the situation, heating the joint and making the oxide grow faster, to the point that the connection is lost. Simply unplugging and re-plugging wipes the oxide off, restoring the connection.

Those of us who use our bikes year round generally don't have the problem, but if you put your vehicle to bed for 6 months of the year, or longer, it is best to unplug and re-plug every connector before resurrection.
 
Had the same issue with my LE which was a climate stored zero mile bike. I put a zip tie around the purple connector and fixed it. I think it's not a tight connection to begin with and eventually loosens after riding.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I have had the dead clocks a few times, removing the connector and re-attaching seems to do the trick. This spring I will give that area extra attention for a hopefully permanent fix.

I had hoped as the bike was broken in that the nasty habit of dying when chopping the throttle with the clutch pulled in would get better but it seems like no change. So thinking about idle speed, injectors, and what to do. The bike will often die while idling when warming up, a minor issue. The gearbox has loosened up a bit and if it is a rough shift that is probably the rider's fault. Get it right and it feels perfect if a bit higher effort than say all of the Ducatis and Aprilia I have owned.

Idle speed: may adjust it up a bit although this seems like a Band-aid fix. When I got my 1098R I thought the idle seemed very high (1500 rpm) but it turns out that is where it is recommended for that engine. I guess something so highly tuned needs it.

Injectors: I very much want to try to the 12 hole injectors as they seem like a real benefit to rideability and improving the miserable fuel mileage (~33 mpg US). Originally I thought a PC-V with the appropriate harness adapter and Dynojet A/F auto tuner would be just the ticket. How to get an O2 sensor added is my primary heartburn on parts that have no replacements. Now leaning toward Tuneboy or Tuneedit, although that open loop system has its own challenges. Tempted to put them in without any changes and see what happens with the feel of the engine and respond as needed. Finding someone familiar with a Tuneboy and a Dyno where I live is a challenge so I may be on my own.

The flow rate is about 6% less than stock...but I would also expect an improvement in fuel mileage of at least that amount. One way to look at it is that much of the poorly injected fuel in the OEM setup could be "wasted" as unburned HC going out the pipe whereas the new finer atomization could also require less fuel.

If anyone knows the adapters required to hook these up (EV14 female to EV1 male?), thanks in advance.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Thought through this last night.

1. Take the current OEM setup. Use an exhaust gas analyzer (about $200) to record CO levels at various rpm.
2. Change injectors without making anything other adjustments and run the same.

That wouldn't tell you everything of course but it would give an idea if there was an improvement in the engine burning cleaner.
 
If anyone knows the adapters required to hook these up (EV14 female to EV1 male?), thanks in advance.
I've got a bundle of these in my attic but you should be able to pick them up on eBay on your side of the pond.

If not, let me know and I'll send a set over to you.
 
How to get an O2 sensor added is my primary heartburn on parts that have no replacements.
on my standard Tornado 900 a previous owner damaged the 3-in-1exhaust pipe and replaced it with a later version having mounting hole and thread for a lambda sensor.
Let me search for a picture
 
Do you mean the Bosch EV14 injectors?

I've used a set of matched Bosch EV14 injectors on my standard Tornado 900 without the need of adapters View attachment 39141 View attachment 39142
Are we talking apples and apples here ?
12 hole injectors are Denso 40 micron , they need adaptors to the leads to connect to the tornado/ Benelli loom.
Bosch use the same plugs as the original Sagem supplied OEM.
I have not seen the EV14 injectors having gone down the Denso route , but I
do not think they are 12 hole .
 
They have the correct fuel delivery, matched to the ECU
I wonder if we use the same definition for what is a "matched set".
From research done by the German BMW User group, there is a wide tolerance ( up to 10%) regarding actual delivered fuel volume from injectors taken out of the same manufacturing batch.
With "matched set" I mean that for each injector the actual spray volume is measured and the injector that go into a set are selected based on a max tolerance of 3%.

Do we use the same definition?
 
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